Choosing a Setting

The part of the ring that holds the diamond in place is called the setting. Even on a gold ring, the setting is usually made out of platinum due to platinum’s superior strength and durability. On an engagement ring the most popular way to set a diamond is to set it with ‘claws’ or ‘prongs’, but there are many other styles of settings, especially to hold the side stones.

Prong Set
The prong or claw set is the setting recommended by most jewelers for numerous reasons. The prong set style raises the diamond above the band and allows the maximum amount of light to enter the stone. This can make the diamond appear more brilliant, and even look larger than it actually is. Generally, four to six prongs or claws cradle the diamond, though different shapes like the heart cut or pear cut will use settings with five prongs.

Bezel Set
With this style of setting a band of metal completely surrounds the diamond and holds it in place. Bezels can be straight edged, or have scalloped edges, or any other style that suits the stone. At the back of the stone the setting can be either open or closed. The bezel setting is used most often for earrings, bracelets and necklaces, but it’s also a popular choice for engagement rings where the wearer has an active lifestyle and wants the stone to sit low in the ring.

Invisible Set
This is a relatively new style of setting. With invisible settings the stones are specially prepared with slits that fit over a ridge in the frame to hold them in place. Princess cut diamonds are predominantly used with this setting, and no metal is visible between the stones.

Pavé Set
Sometimes also called ‘bead set’, this style involves many small stones set close together giving a paved appearance. In fact, the word ‘pavé’ comes from the French meaning ‘to pave’. The stones are generally round and only a minimal amount of metal is seen between the stones.

Channel Set
This is a very common setting style used in engagement and wedding rings. In this set, the stones are placed directly next to each other – no metal is visible between them, but the outer edges of the stones are bounded by a metal edge which rises slightly above the girdle of the diamonds.